![]() Other than these 2 items you need to pay attention to it'll be the easiest engine pull you've ever done. Any newer and you'll need the matching Ypipe because they are single port exhaust.Īnd if an auto search here about torque converter seating. The golden engine is a 95 auto (with EGR). ![]() Good meaning heads checked and resurfaced and rad flushed. Usually a 2.2 with new timing components and new seals (cam, crank, 2 thin Orings, reseal baffle plate) I do pluga and accessory belts and anything else that looks like needs done while it's on a stand, costs about the same as a good HG job. The 2.2 is better in so many ways and can be had for only slightly more than a proper HG job on a 25D. I own and operate a Subaru repair and performance shop and I have plenty of experience rebuilding these - I still don't usually bother. I've done full rebuilds on 25D's, HG jobs, and many, MANY 2.2 swaps. We don't say these things to hear ourselves talk. I have engines delivered to me all the time. Why is it necessary to get one locally? There are plenty of suppliers that will ship it to your door. It's not a great idea to go in for a full rebuild having never split a Subaru block before. The 25D is just a big pile of problems and expensive maintenance and repair issues. The bearings in the 25D are 4mm smaller diameter than the 2.2 and second gen 2.5 and are prone to failure from being too small. I read on a different forum that a lot of people had HG issues after flushing the system which would have been done after the radiator swap. The reason the water pump was changed is because he had a pinhole in the original radiator and had a new one installed and put a new pump in it while it was apart. He was also LOADED so just bought a new car when the gaskets went. The previous owner did take very good care of this car, he was also a subie fan and knew the problem. Are they a real pain to change? I don't have much experience with boxer engines, this is only me 2nd subie and my loyale has been pretty low maintenance engine wise. What is the reason for changing the rod bearings? Im probably going to do that as well while the engine is out as well as getting the heads refinished. The the PO caused several more overheat cycles before he decided to just sell it.ĭon't be one of the folks who does a HG job only to have rod bearings start to make bad noise withing the next 5k or so and need to do rod bearings. ![]() The original owner was in denial before mechanic threw a water pump at it. It's been overheated several times by now. Don't think about a JY engine because they have the same HG issues. If it is HG's I'd do a 2.2, then if you wanna keep the 2.5 do rod bearings as pointed out. If it's head gaskets (odds are great!) you'll need something to read while it cools down. Usually happens at about 30-45 minutes for me in the summer. I recommend a drive a half hour away, turn around and head back. If you wanna burp it pull the lower hose at WP to drain first, then refill through top hose until full, then rad.Īfter you're done take for an hour drive, and take reading material and coolant. If it's overheating, bubbles in the overflow tank, and has no heat (or only heat for a minute or two) when it's overheating.those all happen when the headgaskets blow.Īll true. You can try a leak down test or test for exhaust gases in the coolant. ![]() Oil/coolant mixing, external leaks, and compression tests are meaningless on that motor, they always pass those tests when they blow headgaskets. You are wise to check for something simple but it sounds like you have blown headgaskets. ![]()
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